Wednesday, June 28, 2006
A long time coming....
We are in our new apartment and it is beautiful! Our apartment is on the top floor and we have a glorious view of the city from our bedroom and even better from the rooftop. Sadly, we don't have a balcony, but I think this is better given Jonas is pretty daring these days. It does limit July 1st (4th of July) BBQ options though...
Our first weekend here we decided to give up on unpacking and head to the Matjes Festival in Glückstadt (Glückstädter Matjeswochen). This festival is all about celebrating one of Jakub's and my favourite foods, matjes. I had hoped for matjes prepared in all forms, but it mainly seemed to be matjes brotchen (matjes on bread) and matjes plates (served with a mayo, apple, onion sauce and dark bread). I am not complaining, I love matjes in all forms so I happily ate...and ate.....
We walked off the matjes on a beautiful bike path with sheep all around and then headed for the mandatory kaffee and kuchen (coffee and cake) - this will explain much when you see the pictures of our waistlines;-). It was here in the restaurant that we found the diverse matjes dishes we had hoped for. The food looked incredible and there seemed to be no end to the fishy options. Sadly, we had to settle for a cappuccino and a small apple cake as our bellies were stuffed.
Tuesday, June 13, 2006
It has begun
The World Cup has started and the atmosphere is fantastic. It is truly a global holiday – fans from all nations are celebrating together, the games are shown in all cafes, restaurants and public places and the fan attractions around the city are very civilized. To be honest I expected rowdy fans, animosity and a lot of drunks urinating in public, but it seems like FIFA screened all the undesirables and only the well behaved fans were allowed to travel to
So far the games are mostly pretty exciting. Nicole had the good fortune to go to the perhaps most exciting game so far, which was
A day before the start of the tournament the weather shifted from bitterly cold to a heat wave and we are spending most of our time outside. We are much more north compared to
Last but not least the Czechs won their first game last night over the
Monday, June 05, 2006
Of Mice and Men
So on Saturday we finally made it to Berlin to visit the Biennale before it shut down as well as check out the city. The art show was very interesting, although the exploration of anxieties and universal fears might not be the best suited for four and two year old children.
The exhibit consisted of 12 venues all along Auguststrasse in central Berlin. We only managed to visit the two biggest: an art exhibit space and an old derelict school. The school setting was very powerful: formerly the School for Jewish Girls it was used as a DDR elementary school and appeared to have stood vacant since the fall of the Wall. It felt like a time capsule from a dark past filled with disturbing imagery. The art was as I remember the art scene in the old West Berlin quarter Kreuzberg - dark, gritty, intelectual, but also heavy and not necessarily beautiful.
After the exhibit we wandered into the pouring rain and found a shelter in a small cookie bakery/job counceling agency/cafe on Oranienburgstrasse. While Jonas slept in the stroller, Nicole and Sasha played dominos and I checked out the demonstration going on outside. The participants were from a wide gamut of leftist organizations ranging from the unions to the anarchists and they were all very pissed off about the eroding welfare, low minimal wage, health reform and pretty much anything else associated with the current right-of-center government. But despite the anger in the air and a light police presents they were all very well behaved with children in strollers sleeping through the slogans and shouting.
After the intermezzo we walked by the Neue Wache memorial along Unter den Linden to Brandenburg Tor. The memorial was very moving with light rain falling on the statue of a mother holding in her arms her dead son.
At the Brandenburg Tor Nicole got reaquainted with the long lost relative King Friedrich. She and Sasha previously saw him on travel TV but a live encounter was trully grand.
Finally we fullfilled Sasha's dream and took a velo taxi back to the train station. The train station opened just a week ago and it is more a shopping center and a glass palace of light with trains leaving into the four corners of the World.
It was a short trip and if it wasn't for the rain, we would have covered much more. Berlin gives out much more interesting first impression than Hamburg - it seems much edgier, more grungy and cosmopolitan, where as Hamburg at first sight recalls a Ralph Lauren commercial with beautiful people sailing in front of perfectly maintained homes. But that has a lot to do with the part of town we are staying.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
Our things arrived....
Oh, and I almost forgot. I met a woman from New York in the park yesterday. She lives just down the street from our temp housing, has a daughter just over 1yr old and she seemed really great. She actually reminded me a lot of my friend Lori in Mill Valley. Same great long curly hair and warm smile, smart as a whip too....made me a little sad to be so far from our friends. We went to our "new pizza" spot for dinner tonight and that made me think even more of Lori, Greg and Bella.....till Paris.